Nicosia: Tastes of Tradition
In the historic heart of the capital, over 30 cafes are baulking conventions in favour of preserving traditions.
Text: Christos Michalaros
Photos: Panayiotis Mina
Each morning, the historic core of Nicosia awakens, pulsing within the Venetian walls. Life here follows a unique tempo, a rhythm that’s best understood by wandering the narrow streets and soaking in the local life. While old buildings whisper tales of the past, the vibrant multiculturalism of the city explodes in a feast for the senses. Colours and aromas bombard you from all sides, an irresistible invitation to become part of this timeless charm.
At the heart of it all lies a simple yet cherished daily ritual: Cypriot coffee at traditional Kafeneio (Kafene more casually). These cafés have been serving coffee for centuries and are woven into the very fabric of Cypriot life. We spent a day immersing ourselves in this timeless experience.
Tria Fanaria
Our exploration led us to Tria Fanaria (three lanterns), one of Cyprus’ most historic cafés. Nestled on Mouson Street under shady trees, it boasts a remarkable location neighbouring the historic Parthenagogeio school for girls and the 19th-century church of Panagia Faneromeni. Here, a vibrant tapestry of patrons unfolds: families, newspaper-reading seniors discussing politics, students, tourists, couples in love, and city officials. Interestingly, the café operated with just three tables when the now 86-year-old Savvas Lemonaris took the reins in 1952. A trained pastry chef, he put his stamp on the menu with an array of sweets and pastries, breathing new life into Tria Fanaria. You can savour locally roasted coffee with the signature Kaimaki (a dense layer of creamy foam – the mark of a perfect brew). This touch is a source of pride in all traditional cafés. Don’t forget to pair your coffee with a savoury olive or Halloumi pie or a decadent dessert like Baklava, Galaktoboureko (custard baked in phyllo), Kataifi (honey-soaked, almond and pistachio-filled crispy pastry), Karidato (a classic pastry in the shape of a ball with pieces of walnut decorating its sides), and other traditional pastries.
Giagia Viktoria
Adjacent to the barricade of Ledra Street stands the charming café Giagia Viktoria (Grandma Viktoria). Nestled amidst the pedestrian thoroughfare, it is a quintessential landmark offering a culinary journey unlike any other. Here, patrons indulge in Greek coffee (a variation of Cypriot coffee) alongside the iconic Bougatsa (sweet or savoury phyllo pastry) of Thessaloniki, renowned for its delectable variations filled with creamy custard, cheese, spinach, mince, and more.
Additionally, the café beckons visitors to savour an array of sumptuous desserts from Northern Greece’s rich culinary heritage, including Samali (semolina cake), Ekmek Kataifi (a pastry of custard and whipped cream) and Galaktoboureko. Thodoris, the proprietor, epitomises hospitality and warmth passed down through generations. He honed his craft under the tutelage of his grandmother, Viktoria, who, having migrated from Constantinople to Thessaloniki, opened the city’s inaugural bakery while raising six children. This familial legacy ensures that the artistry and tradition remain impeccably preserved.
Kafeneio 11
A few steps further, at the corner of Piraeus and Soutsou and next to the old Ottoman hammam, the cinematic scene at Kafeneio 11 is the most photographed courtyard in Cyprus. Panos and Miranda, costume and set designers (respectively), dreamt of creating a space like this – a vibrant, modern and kaleidoscopic café. The walls are a tapestry of mismatched ceramics, dusty street signs, shimmering seashells, and pop-culture relics.
Ornate tiles complete the picture. Here, you can immerse yourself in the raw energy of unplugged rebetiko nights and jazz sessions, theatrical monologues and book presentations. Order one of the delectable varieties of coffee or unwind with a local beer or a chilled glass of zivania liquor. Pair your coffee with a spoon sweet: small in quantity, elegant in appearance, and rich in taste. Options include walnuts, black cherries, bergamot, quince, fig, and other fresh favourites.
7 Kleidia
As time passed, the streets led us to 7 Kleidia (7 keys). Here, the Cypriot spirit of camaraderie thrives. Friendships blossom organically. Indeed, amidst the familiar faces, one may observe individuals strolling down the quaint alley nestled between Aeschylou and Trikoupi, solitary yet seamlessly merging into the lively ambience of the tables with ease. The peculiar moniker of the establishment boasts a remarkably simplistic history. When Fotis, the original owner, first unlocked the café’s doors in 2011, his keychain held seven keys. Lacking ideas for naming the business, he decided to name the shop 7 Kleidia.
Today, under the management of three friends –Fivos, Stavros, and Xenios– since 2019, the café has evolved into a hub. Boasting an extensive selection of over 100 local wines, Cypriot and Greek microbrewed beers, an array of spirits, and handcrafted cocktails, the café offers an experience unmatched on the island. Be sure to inquire about their special aged and amber-hued zivania.
Haratsi
Nestled at the corner of Eptanisou and Lidinis Street, we stumbled Haratsi. The café’s owner, Stavros, returned from New York in 2011, where he pursued studies in creative writing. He aspired to open a place akin to those he frequented as a student. He spotted the location while walking and, after many attempts, took possession, naming it Haratsi in tribute to the iconic album by the beloved singer-songwriter, Nikos Papazoglou. Here, you can sample the unique Cypriot Brandy Sour crafted from brandy, lemonade, and a few drops of Angostura bitters. Legend has it that King Farouk of Egypt placed the first order for this esteemed cocktail at the renowned Forest Park Hotel in Platres in 1940. If you’re avoiding alcoholic temptations, you can sip on the most refreshing homemade lemonade served with plenty of ice and mint to soothe the body and soul after hours of wandering through the labyrinthine city.
