Vouni: Life Done Differently

What’s it like moving from cosmopolitan Brussels to quiet Vouni, one of the most picturesque villages in Cyprus? Journalist Pavlos Xanthoulis has the answer.

Text: Eleni Xenou

Photos: Panayiotis Mina

I park the car near the Venetian fountain and watch Pavlos cross the street, clad in a yellow light jacket and ripped jeans, strolling down the cobblestone alley. Having been a European affairs correspondent in Brussels for two decades, he once navigated the Commission’s halls in a suit and tie. Now, he roams the quaint streets of Vouni like a carefree teenager. As I share my thoughts with him, he smiles and remarks, “Since I moved to the village, the suits have stayed in the wardrobe, except when I’m on television. This, to me, is already a taste of freedom.” I like his premise; it fits perfectly with the setting that stretches before me: clean mountain air, green views, birds chirping, serene calm, fragrant courtyards, coloured windows and smiling faces. What more could one ask for?

GOOD MORNINGS

About two decades ago, Pavlos departed Cyprus. Initially, he served as a war correspondent, then transitioned to Brussels as an accredited EU correspondent. The pandemic and unspoken nostalgia prompted him to long for his homeland, to be among his people, more so than he realised. Despite Brussels’ beauty and productivity, it couldn’t dispel the alienation he experienced, as the days lacked the warm embrace of spoken “good mornings.” With his dog in tow, Pavlos embarked on a journey back to Cyprus to rediscover what he longed for. “So, why Vouni?” I inquire as we ascend towards Mesochoros, the heart of the village, home to I Plateia, Cyprus’ most photographed café. “I’ll share the tale once we’ve ordered Cypriot coffee,” he responds.

THE SOUGHT-AFTER LOW MOUNTAIN

We stroll leisurely, allowing our eyes to soak in every minute detail that embellishes the village’s charm. The geraniums in pots. The vibrant shutters of meticulously restored mansions. The slender alleys, iron spiral stairways, and quaint primary school – like a scene from a postcard. Vouni possesses all the ingredients necessary for an Instagram story to garner hundreds of likes, yet it’s incomparable to experiencing the aura exuding from its stone streets, feeling the energy pulsating from the colours and scents at an elevation of 800 metres.

Vouni (Greek for low mountain) is ensconced amidst towering peaks reaching up to 1153 metres. It is cradled by two rivers, the Hapotami and the Krios, rendering it one of the island’s most diverse wine villages. The cosmopolitan version leaves Pavlos indifferent. However, it’s the serenity that captivated him upon his return from Brussels. While weekends see the main street bustling with visitors and locals from Limassol, he opts to retreat to the tranquillity of his home’s courtyard, where he indulges in reading, writing, and tending to his dog until peace is restored.

BACKGAMMON AND WARMTH

We make our initial stop at I Agora Tou Vouniou, the village’s only café-mini-market. Upon arrival, the owner warmly greets Pavlos. After a brief exchange, he informs me that this café stands alone in its refusal to transform into a bar. The neighbouring establishments, Plateia and Maxazaki (known for their delectable burgers and crepes), ramp up the volume on Fridays, weekends, and holidays. As we reach the former of the two, I’m struck by its photograph-worthy decor. Elderly regulars soak up the sunlight, with some engaged in backgammon games while others observe the dice rolls, discussing the day’s news. Opting for a corner table at the café, we order coffee. The patrons are thrilled to see Pavlos return after days away. This warmth is precisely what he sought. Reflecting, he shares his initial assumption that he’d find it in the city. “After all, when I left Cyprus, Nicosia felt like a sprawling village, where neighbourhoods provided a warm embrace and neighbours genuinely cared for each other. Wherever you went, you knew everyone,” he reminisces. “Now, that’s all changed. I realised it upon my return. Nothing matched my memories. Somehow, almost serendipitously, I wandered the countryside and found myself in Vouni.” He recalls, “It was morning, with only a few people milling about. The community leader was at the café, and a simple invitation for coffee conveyed the enduring authenticity of Cyprus. In this charming village, the aroma of genuine warmth still lingered.” Nowadays, when not travelling for work in Brussels or Athens, Pavlos cherishes moments spent in the house he purchased in Vouni, nestled in one of its most picturesque alleys near the splendid church of Timios Prodromos (Saint John the Baptist). “It is a church worth visiting for its blue dome and frescoes by Yavopoulos. And then take a walk next door to the Byzantine Museum,” he says, taking a sip of coffee. 

VEGETARIAN MEATBALLS, KOKORETSI AND FUN

At noon, Pavlos proposes lunch at Tavernaki Tis Lenias, a spot he frequents for Mama Lenia’s delectable vegetarian meatballs, chocolate doughnuts, and the playful ambience. Naturally, he also ventures to other tavernas regularly. He even offers me tailored recommendations for each. Monte Vouni for weekend feasts boasting fresh meats like Kokoretsi (lamb offal wrapped in lamb intestines), Kontosouvli (slow-roasted rotisserie pork), and lamb. Takis, the village’s most historic taverna, for traditional flavours. I Orea Hellas for authentic Greek dishes. Vouniotiko, situated at the village entrance, for its commendable vegetarian menu. “If you’re up for an early drink,” Pavlos suggests, “wander over to Oinou Strata, a boutique hotel boasting a gin and wine bar offering fifty distinct gin labels.” I inquired, “What else do you recommend?” “A stroll to the old olive mill, the two caves on the mountain, and the old primary school atop the village with its stunning panoramic views – the best way to immerse yourself in the splendour of nature,” he responds, his smile radiating pure contentment.

MENTAL PEACE AND TRANQUILLITY

We exit the café and make our way to Pavlos’ home. I inquire as we settle into his living room, “How do you typically spend your days here?” “I start with morning walks along the nearby nature trails with my dog, followed by a visit to the café where I enjoy my coffee, engage in discussions on current events with the locals, and dine at one of the village tavernas. Then, I return home to relax, read, and attend to work. Afternoons are often filled with walks, usually up to the Venetian fountain. What do I cherish most? My tranquillity! Not merely the absence of commotion, but rather the profound peace of mind that my life in serene Vouni offers me each day.”