Nature’s Splendour
The undiscovered gems of Cyprus’ soil form a rich tapestry of surprises, known intimately by a select few who graciously share their secrets.
Text: Vasiliki Anastasi
Photos: Silvio Augusto Rusmigo
In our fast-paced lives, we often overlook the small yet precious moments surrounding us. Even when we have a chance to pause, we often fail to appreciate the beauty of tradition and the simple magnificence of nature. However, some do recognise these treasures. Like Sara and Tassos. Not only have they embraced an alternative way of life, they have moulded it to fit their own. We encountered them in the square in Pera Orinis, a charming village half an hour from Nicosia. It nestles in the foothills of the Machairas Forest alongside the banks of the Pedieos, Cyprus’ longest river.
They’ve spent the past few years gathering mushrooms, fragrant capers, wild asparagus, and various plants. Unveiling the secrets of another way of life, they established Aperanti Agrotourism in an early 20th-century mansion. “I come from Italy. As a child, every time my family and I went on excursions to the countryside and mountains, I remember picking plants and fruits,” Sara recalls as we stroll down from the village square towards the Pedieos. “My grandfather was a shepherd here too, and I spent a lot of time with him as a child, learning and working the land,” Tassos adds. As the common swifts soar overhead and the fragrant flowers beckon, signalling the opportune moment to forage for wild edible plants before the scorching summer sun takes its toll, Sara directs our attention to the first of many finds in our collection – black mustard. Traditionally, mustard is made from white mustard seeds, but she also collects their young, tender leaves, revealing that she fries them like spinach to add them to soups or omelettes.
We continue our wanderings by collecting parts of several wild plants, some of which are better known and have unlimited uses in the kitchen. Tender mallow leaves. Wild thyme and its intense aroma. Wild fennel that gives dishes a unique and spicy flavour. Chamomile flowers that, when dried, give a relaxing infusion. The rest is fresh garlic that smells fragrant and many leeks in their wild form. We stop in front of a calendula blossom. “Today, it is often used in creams to treat skin irritations,” Sara explains. “In the past, people collected wild plants for medicinal purposes, a practice that is now lost in Cyprus.” During our brief expedition, we stumble upon plants that many individuals may never encounter in their lives. Consider the plantain, with flowers that mimic the taste of champignon mushrooms; the delicate leaves of the sow thistle, versatile in numerous recipes; the dandelion, whose flowers are pickled delicacies; and the boiled bulb of the tassel hyacinth, offering a unique culinary experience.
Strolling along the banks of the Pedieos, Tassos and Sara enlighten us on the manifold benefits of the plants we gather. Rich in minerals, vitamins, and medicinal properties, these gifts of nature cater to various needs. “Nature generously provides for us for every occasion. Yet, with wild plants, caution is paramount, as not all are universally suitable, especially for those with underlying conditions,” Tassos advises. “Before incorporating them into your diet or using them medicinally, it’s essential to refer to reliable sources and specialists.”
The sun begins to set. We return to the village carrying two straw baskets filled with our harvest. Sara points out, “We mustn’t overuse nature’s gifts. One rule we always follow is that, for every one of the plants we collect, we leave behind seven! And if something is rare in our area, we don’t even collect it.” We arrive at their rural accommodations, stir in our harvest in the dining room, full of aromas and flavours, and prepare an unforgettable dinner together. As an appetiser, we savour a dish of homemade halloumi accompanied by tomatoes and wild pickled dandelion blossoms. Alongside, there’s a spread of local Anari whey cheese and olive oil, also of their production, which we mix with the various leaves. Our table is decorated with a rich green salad dressed with wild lavender, asphodel, and calendula. An omelette featuring locally sourced eggs and a blend of mallow leaves, plantain, and fennel graces the menu. As for the main course, we indulge in a piping hot potato soup infused with flavours of wild garlic leaves, sow thistle, and thyme. Tassos explains, “We strive to provide our guests with a truly distinctive experience. That’s why, in addition to dishes crafted from ingredients sourced from our organic farm, we’ve curated a variety of activities, including halloumi and olive oil production, as well as cooking lessons.”
I sit amidst their charming courtyard, contemplating the significance of intertwining cultural heritage with the bounties of nature and the culinary traditions of one’s homeland. How precious it is to share these treasures.
