Savouring the hills of Pitsilia
Text: Andreas Katshis / Photos: Silvio Augusto Rusmigo
An autumn journey through villages that keep alive the art of charcuterie and the spirit of the Cypriot countryside – where smoke, flavour, and memories become one.
Each time autumn arrives, one of my favourite rituals is taking little excursions to the mountains. This time, the map points to Pitsilia, a unique cluster of forty-five villages spread across the districts of Nicosia, Limassol and Larnaka. The choice is far from random. Beyond its natural charm –lying beneath Madari, the country’s second highest peak– the region is renowned for its authentic charcuterie, which keeps local tradition alive. We set off from Limassol just after sunrise. Monagri, Doros, Lania – then a pause in Trimiklini for coffee and spoon sweets from the stalls that permanently adorn the village square before heading towards our first destination: Kyperounta.
AT THE FOOT OF MADARI
Kyperounta is one of the best-known villages of Pitsilia and the Limassol district. Thanks to its altitude –around 1,300 metres above sea level– it is an ideal destination both in summer, with its cool climate, and in winter. In recent years, the village has found new ways to showcase its natural beauty, hosting stargazing evenings in the countryside every August, while in the nearby village of Agridia you can visit the observatory.
In the heart of the community, Yiannis Georgiou is waiting for us – a man who, with true passion, continues a decades-long family tradition of making charcuterie in his own factory. When we arrive at Allantika I Pitsilia, a traditional charcuterie, he is already standing at the entrance with chilled lemonades to welcome us. “The business was started by my father, Christodoulos, in 1989, to carry on the craft he himself had learnt from his own parents. I grew up here and loved this work from childhood. Our region is famous for its charcuterie for good reason. It’s the microclimate that helps the meat to mature, the excellent raw ingredients, and of course the technique, which is passed down from generation to generation. This knowledge, now deeply rooted within us, is what makes the difference,” he says.
The factory’s production is rooted in traditional charcuterie, yet Yiannis, keeping an eye on market needs, has expanded the range with everyday products such as turkey and ham. Today, he is planning both an upgrade and an expansion of the facilities, as demand –both locally and abroad– continues to grow. Before we leave, he makes sure we do not go away empty-handed. He treats us to his favourite products, among them the stuffed sausages with halloumi – an exclusive creation of theirs that has already conquered the market.
THE AROMA OF LOUNTZA AND THE STORY OF THREE GENERATIONS
We leave Kyperounta behind, and the road takes us through lush green slopes towards Dymes, another village in Pitsilia with its own unique identity and history. Its name appears to derive from the ancient city of Dyme in Achaea. Before we meet Andreas at the Dymes Paradosiaka Allantika, a charcuterie factory, our attention is caught by a sign pointing to the community park – a recreational space nestled in nature and the starting point of a 4.5-kilometre trail with wild vegetation and rich wildlife.
The scent of smoked Lountza (cured pork loin) reaches us as we stand nearby. Andreas welcomes us, wearing an apron and cap, ready to guide us through the production areas. “The business was started by my grandfather, Andreas Kyriakides, and my grandmother, Sotiroula, in the mid-1970s. My grandfather was a bus driver at the time, and friends from the city would often ask him to bring them some of the cured meats his family made. Back then, almost every household produced their own. That’s how the idea for the first charcuterie factory came about, with my grandmother preserving the craft and the recipes. Later, my father and uncle joined the business, and today it’s our turn – the third generation,” he explains.
As production manager, he is responsible for most of the factory’s operations and product quality, always in close coordination with his father and the rest of the family. “At the moment, we are planning the construction of a new, larger factory. We want it to be open and accessible to the public, so that visitors can taste our goods, see the production process, and experience this unique craft up close,” he elaborates. In recent years, he adds, young people have increasingly turned to tradition and local products, as reflected in the high attendance at the Fruit and Deli Meats Festival held each September in the village. “People are seeking authentic products, and that makes us very happy. Unlike in the past, when they were mostly chosen during the winter months, demand is now year-round.”
Before we say goodbye, he offers us a package of their famous smoked pork and another of sausages, suggesting we try them with Cypriot Yiannoudi or Maratheftiko wine.
THE ROSE OF PITSILIA
Agros is the jewel of Pitsilia – and not just in name. Perched amphitheatrically among the mountains, with views stretching down to the lowlands, it has long been established as one of Cyprus’ most beloved agro-tourism destinations.
The village has it all: guesthouses, restaurants, cafés, and charming little shops. Among visitors’ top choices are the Rose Factory, where local roses are transformed into perfumes and sweets, and the Kafkalia charcuterie, now lovingly run by sisters Niki and Georgia. “The art of charcuterie-making is a tradition passed down from generation to generation. Our parents started 47 years ago, and after our studies, we too joined the business,” Georgia explains.
The first products released under the Kafkalia name were lountza, smoked pork leg, and sausages. Later came Tsamarella (sun-dried goat meat), Zalatina (jellied pork), and Pastourmas (air dried beef), which they season with turmeric, giving it both intensity and its distinctive yellow colour. Our conversation inevitably turns to the future: “There will be continuity, and that makes us especially happy.
Some of our children have already shown interest – either studying something related or helping with production.” As we talk, the shop fills with people. Some are sampling the goods with a small glass of zivania, others asking for suggestions on where to eat or what to see: “On weekdays it’s quieter,” Georgia notes. “There aren’t that many food options in the village, since most places open for the weekends when more visitors arrive.”
On our way out, Silvio halts in front of graffiti on a weathered wall. He lifts his camera, framing a scene where the past and the future coexist.
