Larnaka: In the Neighbourhood of Artists
On two roads inside Piale Pasha, painters, sculptors, and ceramists compose one of the most special districts in the town.
Text: Eleni Xanou
Photos: Panagiotis Mina
It is around 9:30 in the morning, the weather is strange, and the sea is rough. I embark on my journey to Mesoyios Park, a newly established haven for artists, en route to Andreas’ studio. Andreas Kalli, a visual artist, is one of the latest additions to this neighbourhood, once inhabited by Turkish Cypriots and later transformed by Greek Cypriot refugees, predominantly from Famagusta. Several of them were ceramic artisans who inaugurated the initial workshops, unaware that, in the years to come, the locale would undergo revitalisation, drawing in a broader array of artists and blossoming into a renowned destination known as the artists’ enclave.
MAGIC WINGS
Five years ago, Andreas arrived in the neighbourhood and crafted his beautiful home and studio that, as one of the seasoned ceramists later disclosed to me, “His front door has garnered more attention in photographs than the church of St. Lazarus.” As he prepares coffee, my curiosity about his work grows. His remarkable sculptures centre around the theme he is engrossed in. The space exudes a pristine-white ambience, accentuated by a petite garden where the sea breeze delicately caresses the basil plants. He informs me of his preparations for an upcoming exhibition in Athens, where he plans to unveil an installation featuring flapping wings, aptly titled Unfulfilled Journey. Having studied at the School of Fine Arts in Athens with a predominant focus on sculpture, he shares that the concept of the journey holds profound significance for him, embodying the essence of perpetual play. Indeed, this notion fuels his creative endeavours. He likes that the neighbourhood is now officially designated as the artists’ enclave and, although his space is more private, he is happy to open his door to visitors who want to explore his work. However, what truly ignites his passion is the opportunity to coexist with seasoned artists and the inherent romanticism that permeates their lives. This romanticism hails from a bygone era of Cyprus that exudes authenticity – an essence he finds himself unexpectedly nostalgic for despite not having experienced it firsthand.
ANARCHIC HARMONY
Accompanied by Andreas, who has assumed the role of guide, we proceed towards the studio of ceramist Fotos Demetriou. As we arrive, we see him at the far end of a corridor, surrounded by his myriad creations. With a hearty welcome, he gestures for us to draw near. My gaze falls upon a sign adorning the wall, boldly proclaiming Trelas (Greek for crazy) Street. “This street was tailor-made for individuals like us,” I muse inwardly, a smile tugging at my lips. Fotos lowers the volume on the radio and suggests we adjourn to the adjacent room, which serves as a tidier shop space. I follow while gazing at his works: clay people with wings, small boats, strange forms, and constructions with wire or glass, all fairytale-like. Reflecting on his artistic journey, Fotos confides he had other plans when he began, but fate brought him to ceramics. “I thought I was going to be a painter. I was born with a brush in my hand. But fate intervened, guiding me towards the realm of ceramics, where I now revel in experimenting with various mediums.” His creations are odes to the human form and the vast expanse of the sea. “I’ve lived in this neighbourhood since 1984,” he shares, underscoring his enduring bond with the area. With a glint of satisfaction, he adds, “See across the street? That towering palm tree across the street? I planted it myself!” Fotos proudly mentions being the second individual to establish a workshop in this area, preceded only by Stavros Stavrou, another skilled ceramist from Famagusta. He expresses his delight at the influx of new talent. Just before my departure, he leans in conspiratorially. “Would you like to hear what makes this neighbourhood truly special?” With a nod of intrigue, I encourage him to share. “It’s an anarchic harmony,” he whispers, entrusting me with a delicate white boat crafted by his hands before bidding me farewell.
EXPRESSIONIST FACES
Rona Mikellidou and Andreas are practically the same age, sharing a history that spans many years. They attended the same school and currently reside on the same street. Amidst the chaos of the coronavirus era, Rona embarked on constructing the studio that would eventually become her home. “Good thing,” she says, “I got to work on something so beautiful at such a difficult time.” As we sit in her living room, the walls lined with her paintings, I admire them one by one – all portraits. She speaks of her fascination with faces, emphasising her keen observance of expressions, artistic styles, and every subtle grimace that conveys emotion. Her artistic approach leans towards expressionism. She describes it as a realm “suspended between reality and fantasy.” The neighbourhood, she notes, serves as fertile ground for such contemplation. “With its steady stream of visitors from across the globe,” she muses, “some even venture to my doorstep, eager to connect. I relish the opportunity to greet them. It’s a near-magical exchange,” she concludes, as we bid each other farewell.
TWO REALITIES
As if on cue, the sky parts ways with the clouds, bathing us in the sun’s gentle warmth as we resume our stroll. Turning a corner, we chance upon an open door, revealing a charming garden adorned with olive trees and abundant fragrant herbs. “This is the studio of ceramist Stavros Stavrou,” Andreas informs me. But, these days, he is absent, so we are welcomed by his son Orestis, also an artist and painter. Stavros was the first to open a studio in the neighbourhood. When he returned from Italy where he was studying, he learned that there were empty houses. He bought one, fixed it up, and opened a ceramics workshop. Today, Stavros also maintains a shop in the city where he exhibits his creations. Upon his return from Scotland roughly three years ago, Orestis transformed the upstairs room of their house into a studio. The space is adorned with a large centrepiece painting surrounded by several smaller ones, all depicting captivating landscapes – testaments to his deep-rooted love for nature and fishing. When asked about the emotions evoked by this neighbourhood, Orestis reflects, “They’re a blend of two realities: destruction and creation.”
SWEDEN - LARNAKA
Our next destination leads us to the studio of ceramist Efthymios Symeou. Two figures catch my eye in the background. Andreas informs me that one is his wife, Ingela, hailing from Sweden, while the other is his sister, Elena, also an artist. Efthymios is the third luminary among the Famagusta residents, and a friend of Stavros Stavrou. After the invasion, he found himself in Sweden, where he pursued studies at a technological institute. During his visits to Cyprus, he would often find himself spending countless hours in Stavros’ workshop, reminiscing fondly. “We were having a good time,” he recalls with a hint of nostalgia. “It was during those moments that I realised my true calling – to return to the warmth of my homeland and establish my own ceramics studio.” Today, Efthymios creates for The Cyprus Handicraft Service and museums across the country. Among his collection, I see some pieces that stand out. “These are born from my own inspiration,” he shares, “crafted solely for the nourishment of my soul.” He expresses his joy at witnessing the neighbourhood’s burgeoning artistic community. “Since the ’90s, we’ve been striving to breathe new life into it,” he says with a smile. Shortly thereafter, Elena joins our conversation, proudly showcasing her unique jewellery. She reveals her passion for writing, tracing the origins of her creative journey back to this pursuit. We’re asked, “Aren’t you going to Robin’s?” Andreas replies that that is our next stop. Before long, we find ourselves outside the studio where Robin, Efthymios’ son, greets us, his hands bearing the unmistakable signs of dedicated work. He shares that he’s currently involved in his father’s ceramics production, having studied graphic design and nurturing an interest in photography. His photographic pursuits revolve around nature, especially insects. “Cypriot nature is magical,” he notes, finding me in complete agreement. The sky has returned to its former cloudiness, a storm is forecast. “It’s time to go,” I tell Robin and promise him I’ll be back. I thank Andreas for the tour and walk through the artists’ enclave with an underlying euphoria.
