Pathways To Faith

With an unmistakable air of mysticism, the churches of old Nicosia offer a distinctive tour of the city.

Text: Eleni Xenou

Photos:  Silvio Augusto Rusmigo

The Οld Nicosia hides historical and spiritual treasures within its walls. Its religious monuments, scattered throughout various neighbourhoods, showcase its rich cultural heritage, bringing visitors in touch with centuries of tradition and worship.

Saint John the Theologian

The Cathedral of Saint John the Theologian is the perfect starting point for your tour. Located in Archbishop Kyprianou Square, opposite the historic Pancyprian Gymnasium –the oldest educational institution in Cyprus– it is nestled between the Archbishop’s Palace and the Folk Art Museum. Though small, the cathedral stands majestically, inviting you to take a moment to admire its 18th century frescoes, which depict scenes from the Bible and the discovery of Apostle Barnabas’ tomb in Salamis. These stunning frescoes are beautifully illuminated by natural light streaming through nine windows. It is a single-aisled, barrel-vaulted structure, and its intricately carved wooden iconostasis is considered one of the finest in Cyprus. Four of its icons were painted between 1795 and 1797 by Ioannis Kornarοs, while the icon of Saint John the Theologian, created by Theodore Poulakis, arrived from Venice in 1672. Do not miss the 14th-century relief depicting the Crucifixion, one of the few surviving examples of mediaeval sculpture in Cyprus. The cathedral was built in the 17th century on the site of an earlier monastery known as Saint John the Theologian of Bibis. Although the exact date of its founding remains unknown, two main theories exist: one suggests it was a Benedictine abbey, while the other claims it was founded by Syriac Orthodox Christians who arrived in Cyprus in the 9th century. It seems the name ‘Bibis’ derives from the Arabic word habib, meaning ‘love.’

Panagia Chrysaliniotissa

Exiting the courtyard of the Cathedral of Saint John, you turn left on a street lined with old mansions. Continuing along picturesque Antigonou, you reach Ermou Street. Continuing straight on Minoos, you’ll spot the impressive graffiti by the renowned artist Fikos on your left, depicting ‘Saint Europe.’ A little further ahead, as you ascend, the Church of Panagia Chrysaliniotissa appears before you – the only surviving example from the middle Byzantine period in Nicosia. Although built in the 15th century, numerous additions and alterations have significantly changed its original form, making it difficult to recognise its initial design. Nevertheless, the Byzantine elements, such as the curved arches, and the Gothic features with their pointed arches, remain visible. Its iconostasis is divided into four sections, three of which are intricately carved in wood and covered with gold leaf. The icons date back to the 17th century, with particular interest drawn to the icon of the Virgin Mary, wherein the virgin gazes in opposite directions, evoking awe and contemplation from visitors.

Agios Kassianos

Directly across from Chrysaliniotissa is a small park filled with herbs. Crossing through it leads you to the Chapel of Agios Kassianos. Just a stone’s throw from the Green Line, it stands as a monument symbolising the scars history has left on the city. In one of the most picturesque neighbourhoods, the chapel remains one of the most beautiful in Old Nicosia, with a courtyard full of ancient olive trees and pots of geraniums. Built in 1854 on the foundations of a smaller church dating from 1750, it is distinguished by its intricately carved wooden iconostasis and the impressive 19th-century icon of the Virgin Mary holding the Child, known locally as ‘Virgin Mary Pouristitzi,’ meaning ‘she who drives away evil.’ Next to the chapel, nestled among lemon trees, is the priest’s small house. On the other side, Kassianos Street leads you to Axiotheas, where the renowned Toufexis Mansion stands, now serving as a cultural centre for the University of Cyprus. Walking back toward Chrysaliniotissa, you realise how close the churches are – two relics of Old Nicosia.

Agios Antonios, Agios Savvas and Archangel Michael Tripiotis

Return to Archbishop Kyprianou Square, this time heading in the opposite direction. The destination is the Church of Agios Antonios, where the family of dragoman (interpreter) Hadjigeorgakis Kornesios once attended services, as their mansion is just 50 metres away. The impressive mother-of-pearl iconostasis, dating back to 1796, was donated by the family. Built during the Ottoman period, it is a single-aisled basilica from the 18th century known for its Baroque-influenced, wood-carved iconostasis and its tall, intricately sculpted stone bell tower. From here, head up Patriarch Gregory Street, passing by the Omeriye Mosque and the renovated hammam. Turning left onto Aischylou, you find yourself amidst shops, most of which are now closed. There stands the Church of Agios Savvas, a stone-built basilica. A plaque embedded in its southern wall indicates it was built in 1851, though other sources suggest there was an older structure from the Frankish period, which was renovated twice before being expanded in 1851. Among the church’s most important relics are the cross from the old iconostasis, created in 1659 by the iconographer Pavlos, and the Holy Chalice from 1501, crafted by the goldsmith Paschalis, both of which are now exhibited in the Byzantine Museum. Directly opposite Agios Savvas, a small alley leads you to the impressive Church of Archangel Michael Tripiotis, one of the most significant from the Ottoman period. The structure is a three-aisled basilica with a dome, built in a Franco-Byzantine style. Its foundation stone was laid by Archbishop Germanos in 1695. In its imposing iconostasis, you can admire remarkable icons influenced by 15th-century Italian painting, as well as works by renowned 17th-century painters. The interior is adorned with marble reliefs and the largest gilded iconostasis of all the churches in Old Nicosia.

Panagia Faneromeni

From Archangel Michael Street, turn left onto Onasagorou and enter the busiest part of the Old Town. Standing proudly at the heart of this locale is the Church of Panagia Faneromeni, the largest within the walls of Nicosia. According to tradition, there used to be a monastery on the site which was destroyed in 1571 during the Ottoman conquest of the city. Folk tradition states that the icon of the Virgin Mary revealed itself over the ruins of the monastery, and is now kept in the sanctuary. This miracle gave the church its name. The present structure was built in 1872 and follows the type of a three-aisled basilica with a dome. It also features influences of Western architecture. Inside, you can admire frescoes from 1929, created by the notable Cypriot painter Ioannis Kissonergis, while the icons of the four Evangelists belong to the renowned artist Adamantios Diamantis. There are several significant historical buildings in the vicinity worth exploring, such as the all-girls school and the Faneromeni Library. In the church’s courtyard, you will see the Mausoleum of the Cypriot National Martyrs, which serves as an important site of historical memory.

The Holy Cross of Missirikou

Exiting from the back door of the Church of Panagia Faneromeni, on your left, you will encounter the tiny Chapel of the Holy Cross of Missirikou which dates back to the Venetian period. This small space, combining Byzantine and Gothic elements with influences from the Italian Renaissance, was converted into a mosque during the Ottoman era, under the name Arablar Mosque (Mosque of the Arabs). Today, it is sealed off, so your visit will be brief, but it will offer you the chance to conclude your mystagogical tour with a plate of Cypriot cuisine at the traditional ‘Matthaios’ taverna located just outside the chapel.