The Streets of Honey

The villages of mountainous Larnaka will captivate you not only by their natural beauty and traditional architecture but also by the sweet touches of honey in every corner.

Text: Eleni Xenou

Photos: Silvio Augusto Rusmigo

The day dawns and the cool morning air brings with it the promise of a unique adventure. On the horizon, the picturesque villages of Larnaka, rich in the tradition of beekeeping, await our discovery. Tranquillity, serenity, and a warm, welcoming atmosphere surround us as we think about the wonderful experiences that lie ahead. Silvio, always enthusiastic, insists on an early start, and this time I have no objections. I’m certain our trip to four of the nine ‘Honey Villages’ will be the sweetest one I’ve had so far.

Vavatsinia

It’s 07:30 in the morning, and we are already on the ‘Bee Trail’ in Vavatsinia. The landscape is enchanting, wrapped in absolute tranquillity, with the fresh mountain air embracing us. The path offers a sense of peace and renewal. It’s no coincidence that the trail is called ‘The Humming of the Bees’ – its very purpose. As you walk among bee-friendly plants, you surrender to their soft hum, a sound that has been scientifically proven to combat stress.

Enjoying the panoramic view, the picturesque village of Vavatsinia appears in the distance, and I realise that the trail passes right through the town. As we stroll, I notice a wooden structure. Upon reading, I learn it’s a ‘hotel’ for solitary bees. Impressed, I discover that they don’t produce honey but are vital pollinators. Such hotels are a wonderful way to attract them. We continue along the path, surrounded by aromatic plants and wildflowers, passing  beehives, until we reach a spot with wooden loungers beneath towering pine trees. It’s the perfect place to relax. This spot is also ideal for yoga, and I learn that many have already discovered its therapeutic energy. For those interested, the trail is 2.5 kilometres long with a difficulty rating of 2, making it accessible for everyone.

Melini

We reluctantly leave behind the soothing setting of the trail, but it’s time to move on to the village of Melini and the ‘Oros Maxaira’ apiary. There, Maria, the wife of one of the owners, is waiting to give us a tour of the place. Her family has been involved in beekeeping since 1983, and today their business is one of the largest on the island in honey production. This particular apiary has been in operation for four years, and it offers tours and visits like the one Maria will give us, starting with a tasting. She hands us three wooden spoons with honey –floral, thyme, and raw– and asks us to guess which is which. But the pleasure of tasting all three varieties outweighs the need for identification. After exploring the different types of honey and other bee products, she explains the process of honey extraction and production, and how it is bottled. We even get the chance to bottle our own honey, a truly unique experience.

Next, we enter a room where the walls are adorned with information about bees and honey production, which I read with the excitement of a child. I learn that a hive can produce between 30 to 100 kilograms of honey annually, and that to produce just one kilogram, a bee colony needs to collect nectar from around two million flowers. Maria interrupts my studies to lead us to the small wooden cabin where apitherapy takes place. This is an ancient therapeutic practice discovered by the Egyptians, using beehive products to treat ailments such as respiratory infections, stress, and depression. Full of the sweet taste and newfound knowledge, we’re ready to leave. But Maria insists on treating us to a shot of mead for the road, explaining its fascinating story: mead is the reason behind the term ‘honeymoon,’ as newlywed couples were required to drink it for a month after their wedding to bring them luck and fertility.

Vavla

Ready to become beekeepers, even if just for a little while, we head to the picturesque village of Vavla and the ‘Ecophysis’ Bee & Nature Centre,  run by Costas and Georgia. This young couple is not only involved in honey production but also organises a wide range of activities, including workshops, honey-themed breakfasts, and bee excursions, offering the unique experience of living as a beekeeper for a day. Costas shares how his love for bees began at a young age when he helped his godfather in the ‘90s. This is where he learned invaluable beekeeping techniques. Georgia, a biologist specialising in ecology, shared the same passion for nature conservation. Together, in 2014, they decided to create this farm, blending educational activities with hands-on workshops.

Before we put on our protective suits and head to the hives, Costas offers us coffee and suggests we join one of the outdoor picnics they organise featuring local products, such as honey with Anari cheese, homegrown herbs, and other delicious treats that whet our appetites. Regretfully, we can’t attend and we suit up as beekeepers and set off for the hives. The experience that follows is exhilarating. For the first time, we get a close-up look at what happens inside a hive: we identify the queen, observe the drones and the tireless worker bees as they store honey and pollen. The evolutionary wisdom and organisation leave us in awe. “I’m amazed!” I tell Costas, who, having heard similar reactions many times before, smiles with satisfaction.

Kato Drys

A group of French tourists is wandering around the courtyard of Mrs. Elli Korniotou, sampling her honey and sipping fresh lemonade after they tour the Bee and Embroidery Museum. It is housed in a traditional, restored home in the picturesque village of Kato Drys. Earlier, we strolled through the ‘Melifera’ bee garden, located just outside, which hosts more than fifty different plants, all ideal for attracting bees.

The museum is the creation of Mrs. Elli and her husband, housed in the old home of her great-grandfather. In addition to the wealth of information about bees and hive products, it also stands out for its impressive collection of family Lefkaritika embroideries. What truly makes it unique, however, is the warm, homely atmosphere. The hostess treats visitors to her homemade sweets and shares stories from her family’s traditions. We take a stroll through the space, exploring the bee-related exhibits, then return to the courtyard to sample some excellent Zivania. As we enjoy the hospitality, time passes without us realising it. Leaving the Honey Villages behind, we look forward to returning soon to uncover even more of what they hold – the essence of tradition and the sweetness of nature.