The secrets of olive oil
Text: Eleni Xenou / Photos: Silvio Augusto Rusmigo
A conversation with olive oil sommelier Marinos Marinou reveals that, although olive oil has been an integral part of the Cypriot diet since ancient times, we still remain unaware of many of its secrets.
“I’ve always had a passion for flavours,” Marinos tells me with a smile that reveals both experience and enthusiasm. It’s morning, the day is sunlit, and we’re sitting in a small wooden cabin tucked away among the olive groves of Vavatsinia, watching through the window as the trees shimmer in the sunlight. He recounts how, as a child, he would sneak into the kitchen of the restaurant where his parents worked, enchanted by the aromas and driven by a passion to uncover the ingredients in every dish. It’s a passion that stayed with him as he grew up. And although he studied graphic arts, the art of tasting remained his true love. As for how he came to be an olive oil sommelier –and the first Cypriot ever accepted into the University of Jaén, the world’s only institution dedicated solely to olive oil– he recounts it as something almost karmic. In that Spanish town, where he ended up almost by chance, he would taste 50 to 60 different olive oils a day, constantly visit groves and mills, and share his experiences with people from all over the world. It was as if it had been written in the stars. But how did it all begin?
A NEW WORLD
The COVID-19 pandemic finds him unemployed, at home, spending the first lockdown searching online for tasting seminars – a way to make the most of a period of forced isolation. By chance, he stumbles upon one focused on olive oil tasting. He’s never heard of anything like it before; his curiosity is piqued, and almost on impulse, he signs up. A few days later, a sealed package arrives at his door: small bottles filled with different olive oils. With the online instructions in front of him, he begins sampling them, trying to distinguish aromas and flavours. The process thrills him. He feels as if a vast, unexplored world is opening up before him and he’s eager to dive in. A friend shares more information with him, and about a year later, he applies for a scholarship to the University of Jaén, determined to become an olive oil sommelier. His application is initially rejected on the grounds that he’s professionally outside the field. But he doesn’t give up. He picks up the phone and begins telling them about the deep relationship Cypriots have with olive oil – a bond that begins in infancy when we are baptised in it, continues with homemade remedies for stomach or ear aches, and becomes a staple in the meals our mothers cook. “Even our flag has an olive branch on it,” Marinos tells them. And just like that, he convinces them to accept him. The result: four fascinating months in Jaén, a small town near Andalusia, quite literally surrounded by olive groves. From nine in the morning until nine at night, his sole focus is exploring the rich world of olive oil, training under some of Spain’s most renowned olive oil experts and tasters. “I even tried olive oil ice cream,” he says, laughing – along with olive oil marmalade, and yes, even an olive oil cappuccino. “In Jaén, everything is made with olive oil,” he adds, and we laugh together.
WHAT DOES OLIVE OIL SOMMELIER MEAN?
Cypriot nature is filled with olive trees. In the old days, nearly every household produced its own oil. It was, in other words, not just part of our diet but part of our upbringing. And yet, despite being passed down from generation to generation, we know very little about it. This realisation, along with the awareness that in recent years Cyprus has been producing exceptional extra virgin olive oils recognised in international competitions, was what sparked Marinos’ desire to delve even deeper into the secrets of olive oil.
He studied at this particular university to specialise as an Expert in Olive Oil Tasting. I ask him to explain exactly what that means. “An olive oil sommelier is a sensory evaluator who assesses olive oil using their senses according to the standards set by the International Olive Council,” he tells me, clarifying, “This means they classify and characterise the oil as extra virgin or not based on specific organoleptic criteria. They don’t express a personal opinion. One evaluates it objectively, without emotion – using only his nose, palate, and training.” This is where his background, his memories, and his passion for flavour come into play, allowing him to recognise what each olive oil holds within. “No olive oil is the same as another,” he adds, emphasising that even he didn’t know this before entering the field. Each one has its own flavour profile – its own taste, aroma, colour, and distinct characteristics which depend on many factors: the variety, the soil, the climate conditions, the altitude of the olive grove, the method of harvest, the proper functioning of the olive mill, and even the method of storage.
EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
So, what are the characteristics that make an olive oil extra virgin? Marinos explains it as simply as possible: “When you smell it, you detect aromas of nature – fruits, herbs, flowers, and vegetables. When you taste it, you begin to recognise notes from its environment. In Cyprus, for example, you often find hints of artichoke, almond, or tomato. Bitterness and pungency are qualities considered during a tasting, but they’re not what determine whether an olive oil is extra virgin. Even a mild, sweet olive oil can fall into that category.” The colour of olive oil, he adds, plays absolutely no role in determining its quality. If, during tasting or smelling, you detect flaws such as rancidity, sourness, or a musty odour, this indicates that the olive oil has been mishandled or improperly stored. In such cases, it cannot be classified as extra virgin. “In Spain, where olive oil culture is strong, you can taste the oil before buying it. Here, however, that option doesn’t exist.” That’s why his advice to consumers is this: “When you buy olive oil, pour a small amount into a little glass at home and gently warm it with your hands so it begins to release its aromas. Bring it close to your nose and smell it. If it reminds you of greenery –fruits, vegetables, herbs– then it’s excellent. But if it gives off a sour or musty smell, then something went wrong.”
HEALING OLIVE OIL CULTURE
We take a pause to stroll through the olive grove just before the light fades. “How do you plan to utilise all the knowledge you’ve gained?” I ask him as dozens of swallows circle above our heads. He is already participating as a judge in international competitions, while at the same time trying to find time to organise small tastings at restaurants. His ultimate goal, however, is to teach tastings of Cypriot olive oils to tourists inside hotels, pairing them with the appropriate menu. He is particularly pleased by the fact that, in recent years, Cypriot olive oil culture has been strengthening. He observes this in numerous restaurants where the traditional vinegar and oil set on the table has been replaced by stylish, small bottles of olive oil thoughtfully crafted by local producers. Once we finish our stroll, he lets me taste an extra virgin olive oil from a special blue glass. He asks me what scents I can distinguish. “I need training,” I reply, laughing, as I struggle to identify them. He smiles and promises that he will give me lessons. Until then, he advises me to drink a teaspoon of olive oil every morning. “It’s the best shield for our body,” he says, and I thank him for the advice.
