The Celebrity Chef Mr Peskias
Text: Isabela Foustanou
Photography: Demetris Vlaikos
Born and raised in Cyprus, Christoforos Peskias is considered a prominent ambassador of new Greek cuisine, and constantly ranks amongst the top chefs shaping the culinary landscape of Greece. His out-of-the-beaten-track professional journey started while studying business administration in Boston, MA, when he decided to include in his CV advanced cooking skills, a decision he firmly believes was the best he ever made. Travelling and cooking in the States and Europe, training next to “wizards” of taste like Charlie Trotter, Ferran Adria, Μarc Meneau and Joel Robuchon, working hard and showing unquestionable talent, this multiple awards recipient Chef has by now signed the menu of many top restaurants. His Athens crib, 48, has been among the top 100 restaurants in the world since 2003 according to Restaurant Magazine.
How would you describe Cypriot cuisine? What makes it stand out?
In my opinion, Cypriot cuisine is the most important local cuisine of the Hellenic nation. It is the end result of countless influences left behind by the island’s multiple conquerors. Cypriot cuisine was influenced –apart from the obvious impact of the motherland– by the Middle East, Turkey and North Africa, due to the closeness of these regions. One might even go as far as to say that Cypriot cuisine embodies the original culinary mediterranean fusion of flavors and techniques. Characteristic examples of that are ravioles, moudjendra lentils, koupes, tahini and bulgur pilaf.
In your cooking you always combine contemporary techniques and traditional flavors. What are you favorite ingredients?
I love using tomatoes, louvia, cilandro, columbra, tahini, arugula, bulgur, agrelia (wild asparagus), lemon, haloumi, loundja, tsamarela... I’ll stop here because I can go on for another 200 pages...
You have ascribed to your cuisine the term “nostalgic”. How can a feeling slide into our dish?
By using key ingredients, like the ones I just mentioned, in modern preparations.
Culinary tourism is an increasing trend the last few years. How could Cyprus hop on that train and make the most out of it?
Cyprus has a vast tradition that could easily turn her into a culinary tourism paradise. However, we must mention that we Cypriots have to embrace this tradition and understand that in order to move forward there is no need to copy other culinary traditions. Modern techniques and traditional ingredients are –in my humble opinion– the way to the future.
According to you, what are the must-taste flavors for people visiting the island?
Everytime I go to Cyprus I have tahinopita (tahini pie) for breakfast and pasteli with carob honey. Then I eat koupes and if I can haloumopites (haloumi cheese pies), kolokotes and ofto kleftiko. Don’t forget about sheftalies and the best souvlaki in the world…the Cypriot souvlaki!
What products should be packed in our suitcase before we take off from Cyprus?
Haloumi, lountza, tsamarela, lokoumia Yeroskipou, arkatena rusks, carob honey.
LEMON GRASS RAVIOLES
INGREDIENTS
FOR THE DOUGH
300gr. flour
3 large eggs or 7 yolks
a dash of olive oil
small quantity of water
salt
1 egg yolk beaten and diluted with a dash of water, to hold the dough sheets together
FOR ΤΗE FILLING
450gr. haloumi, grated
1 egg
1 bunch of spearmint, leaves only, finely chopped
FOR BOILING
1lt chicken broth
2tbs extra virgin olive oil
2 pieces of lemon grass, chopped in large pieces
freshly ground salt and pepper
TO SERVE
100-150gr. haloumi, grated
½ bunch of spearmint, roughly chopped
300gr. shiitake mushrooms, sliced
INSTRUCTIONS
Sift the flour and place it in a bowl with the salt. Make a hole in the middle and add the beaten eggs. With your fingers gently mix the ingredients until the dough becomes like bread crumbs. Shape the dough into a ball, transfer on your working surface and kneed. Wrap the dough with cling film and set it in the fridge to rest for at least 30’. Roll out the dough using the manually operated pasta making device at the widest point 5 or 6 times, until the dough sheet becomes very thin, often adding pinches of flour. Cover the dough sheet with a tea towel to avoid drying and roll out another one with the same dimensions. Place the filling on the first sheet at 8 cm intervals approximately. Apply the egg/water mix on the dough where there is no filling and place the second dough sheet on top. Press the upper sheet so as to form the ravioles and cut out individual pieces with a 6-8cm diameter cookie cutter, then set them in a floured surface. For boiling, heat the chicken broth until it starts simmering and add the ravioles. Add lemon grass and boil for approximately 2’. Take the pan away from the heat. Salt and pepper. Serve the ravioles in a bowl like soup and top with the shredded haloumi.
